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Join a Khmer family with Pchum Ben celebrations

Celebrate Pchum Ben with a local family in Phnom Penh

One of the most important religious festivals in Cambodia is Pchum Ben. It is translated as “Ancestors Day”, but actually lasts up to 14 days. The festival marks also the end of the buddhist lent and the rainy season. Monks will now again be allowed to travel and asking in the villages for alms. 

Our host Phanny will give travelers the rare opportunity to join her and her family in the festival activities.
This year the main activities are from 27.-29.9.2019.

 

You will join them at 8am in the morning and help preparing the food. Those dishes will later on given as offerings and donations to the monks, but also be your lunch. Once the offerings are prepared, the family will take you to the pagoda.

Go to the pagoda and honor the ancestors

During Pchum Ben offerings are made in the pagoda to the ancestors. Since there is no graveyard and -stone like in christian countries, prayer will we sent up to the ancestors world.  Those who are not with us anymore play still an important role in the Khmer culture. It is expected that during Pchum Ben the gates of hell will open and the ghost can come to the real world for a while. To please them, monks in the pagoda will chant day and night. The families will please the ghosts with offerings, usually food. But is is common belief that also those relatives who are not in hell will benefit from the ceremonies. The offerings will be given to the monks, as kind of intermediates to the ghosts. In rural Cambodia some people will throw rice on the floor to give it directly to the ghosts.

Meditating in the temple during Pchum Ben

Your part will be that of an observer, but you can participate as much as you can. Phanny’s daughter Thyda will teach you how to pray (you are praying to the ancestors, so even for non buddhists its ok to do it without believing in a religion). But we leave it up to you. She will also lead you to the sand stupas, which are build in the temple areas during important religious festivals like Pchum Ben. It will take around two hours at the pagoda. Traditionally women wear a white blouse when entering a temple area, men a shirt and trousers.  You don’t have to dress like a local, but should wear decent clothing, covering as much skin as possible.

 

 

 

Having lunch with your host family

After the offerings and prayers Phanny and her family will take you back to the house where you will have lunch with the family (it’s optional to have the lunch at the pagoda, but we need to know in advance). 

 

The menu:

CHICKEN FOREST SOUR SOUP (SAMLOR MACHOUPREY SACHMIEN)

It is a kind of hot-soup which was named from a forest. It is cooked with a combination of chicken and varieties of fresh vegetables like colorful tomato, green pepper, and sweet pepper, mixed with Khmer Kroeung and tamarind. For Khmer Kroeung, she uses lemongrass stalk, Kaffir lime, Galangal, Rhizome, and garlic. To make a yellow Kroeung, she added turmeric a bit over than others to get color and flavor. Finally, the soup is added with holy basil known as M’rah prov.

FRIED SWEET GOURD (KHUO NORNAOENG)

A very fresh fried tropical vegetables mixed (gourd and sweet corn) with chicken egg will bring you an unforgettable experience of Khmer food. After cooking, she added Kampot pepper and spring onion over the fried.

GRILLED PORK RIB (CHHA-EUNG CHHUMNY CHROUK-ANG)

A common right dish for every time meals such as breakfast, lunch or dinner. She could make it special by marinating the pork ribs with Kampot pepper (a special pepper from the southwest part of coastal of Cambodia), a little salt and sugar, oyster sauce and garlic, etc. Its smell will make you hungry!

COCONUT JELLY (CHA-HUOY DOUNG)

Hot and steamy would be a good way to describe the weather in Cambodia. Therefore, the coconut jelly is a popular dessert to help you cool down the heat inside your body. Mixed gelatine powder with coconut water and let it stand for a few minutes.  After that top up it with coconut milk and leave in the fridge to set.

The dates:

27.9.1019

28.9.2019

29.9.2019

 

The price:

40 USD for single person

70 USD for two people

100 USD for three people

Included: 

Transport from the host to the pagoda and back to the hosts house

Welcome snack and drink at the hosts house

Offerings for the pagoda

Lunch at the hosts house

Free tea and drinking water (and free refill).

 

Not included:

Transport to the hosts place

 

After booking we will send you a ticket with the location description and relevant phone numbers. It takes about 20-30 minutes from downtown Phnom Penh to the house, since it’s in the north of the capital. 

 

 

Guests from China

Best tips how and why to eat with locals

Whenever we ask our guests how they found us, they answer they were looking for a way to eat with locals end get in touch with regular families. They already did the bucket list of important landmarks and buildings, but want to know not just about the past, but how people live now.  And food is a good way to get together, create a calm and relaxed atmosphere and exchange cultural knowledge. We want to give you some advise how and why to eat with locals (and experience a locals place in general.)

Host Ms. Phanny in Phnom Penh
Host Ms. Phanny cooks Khmer food in Phnom Penh

Local food is always special

From whatever country you come, there will be one dish that is well know all over the world. In Germany it is sausage, in Thailand Green curry, in the UK fish and chips and in Cambodia probably Beef Lok Lak and Prahok. But does this really cuisines of a country? When come to a city and look for food around here, Google and Tripadvisor will present you their selection of restaurants. But is this really locals food? In many cases it is not. Most of those places for example don’t serve the Siem Reap sausage, a fat and sweet sausage usually heated on a charcoal fired BBQ.

So when you arrive in a city, better ask for the cities most famous food. Who to ask? Go to a local restaurant, ask a seller on the streets. Language problems: These days even the Khmer language is available in Google translate. Just ask “is there a local eating around me?” and follow the people’s suggestions. Avoid the tourist places, because they have to cater a wide range of taste, and usually don’t dare to go into local special food. And of course, you an always Dine With The Locals.

How to get in touch with locals?

There are many ways to get connected. When in Siem Reap, you will most likely hire a tuk tuk driver to take you around Angkor Wat and the temples. Many drivers have family members with restaurants (although some will take you to the place where they get the most commission). But there is a really good chance that you get a driver who is open minded and like to connect to travelers. If you ask him (or her), where you can eat with locals or spend a evening with locals, he may just invite you to his home. If you prefer a local restaurant, ask him where he goes when he takes his family out (but don’t be surprised when he says Pizza Company, its’ a big thing now).

Guests after cooking with locals in Phnom Penh
Guests after cooking with locals in Phnom Penh

In Ho Chi Minh City the best way to meet locals is to go to one of the parks in downtown in the late afternoon. Just walk around and it will not take long that someone will ask you something. Vietnamese students are eager to practise English and looking for opportunities to do so. You can meet them also in the Vietnamese coffee shops, where they just hang around, watch a movie or staring at the mobile phones. In the evening many people from Saigon walk along Nguyen Hue street next to the city hall. But you can also roam around Pham Ngu Lao to the Benh Tanh market. Recently Buy Vien street became the host spot for the local night life. an absolut must is here to have a meal at The Bun Bar, authentic Vietnamese food on a new level.

Talk with staff in your hotel

If you are travel in the low season, staff in the hotel has more time to chat with you. Most are happy to improve their English. Just be prepared that it takes a while to start a conversation. Also, many Khmer in the hospitality industry speak English at a basic level. They want improve, but you should be aware that the vocabulary and general knowledge is limited. When you are used to  typical BnB food, don’t expect it in Cambodian or other Asian hotels. When you have breakfast with Khmer, they eat soup or rice, sometimes porridge, but for sure not cereals or sausages. Any chat with locals in your hotel may result in a night out. We had a guest at our Host Sarath who was so happy, that they all went together to pub street. After the dinners for ladies came the drinks for ladies.

 

Meal sharing is common when you eat with locals

In a Cambodian restaurant as well as in families sharing is caring. You don’t order a dish for yourself. Instead the oldest member of the party orders several dishes, and they a shared. There is no real understanding of courses – just dessert comes last – but at a wedding for example the soup is the highlight at the end. When you eat with locals the dishes come as they are prepared, one by one, in no particular order. Some family member will give you either an empty plate or one already filled with rice. Then you can pick from all the dishes on the table. One advice: do not use your spoon or fork to transfer from the plate or bowl to your plate, but the one provided. This can be confusing sometimes, since they are all the same and you easily forget if this was your spoon or not. 

Travelers can help cooking and chat with the Khmer family
Travelers can help cooking and chat with the Khmer family

The use of chopstick is not very common for Khmer dishes, but for Chinese food. And since the rice noodle soup has it’s origin in China, the family will provide you chopsticks. If you eat in a local restaurant, have a look for the box at the end of the table. It’s usually a container with forks, spoons and chopsticks as well as Asian soup spoons. Talking about spoons: there is a spoon as we know it from the western world and the Asian soup spoon. You find both of them and they kind of serve the same purpose. However, the soup spoon is for sure the one you should grab when eating soup – or even some desserts, like tapioca pearls in coconut milk.

Spoons, forks and chopsticks

There is rarely a knife on the table, some say for safety reasons. But there is also not need since all food is prepared in a way that it can be eaten with just spoon and fork. Meat is cut into slices and pieces, fish as well. Because most meat, in particular chicken, will be cut from top to bottom, expect some bones in it. All kinds of meat are expensive, a whole chicken on the market cost 10 USD. It would be a waste of money to just serve you the chicken breast. The same goes for fish, expect bones as well. At least the cook removes the head and fins.

 What to do and what not to when you eat with locals

Every culture has some rules and traditions, and Cambodia as well as it’s neighboring countries make to exception. When you enter a Khmer home, please leave your shoes outside. This is a rule for the inside of buildings, not for any outside seating. In some houses the  elevated terrace is also considered living space. The easiest way is to watch what the others are doing. If they great you with the hand folded together, just do the same. Action is sometimes more than words and a greeting in English supported by the right action is totally appropriate. 

As a guest you experience kind of a VIP treatment as it is in most cultures. Your host will serve you rice and drinks first.You may still wait until everyone else has rice on the plate. The oldest person in the family will then serve you some of the dishes on your plate or ask you to take it yourself. You don’t have to empty all the food. But you should at least try a bit from everything. If you like it, you can say “Tchnang”. The “a” pronounced like the “u” in “sung” and the “ng” pronounced as it would be at the beginning. The word means delicious, of course. 

Hospitality in Cambodia 

Khmer families are very friendly and open to guests. When you are traveling on the countryside, it is common that a family will wave at you and when you stop offer you some drinks – sometimes for sell. When you visit our hosts you can experience this warmth and inclusive approach to guests. The families are happy and proud to show their skills and the Khmer culture. And it is not just about cooking. Every of our hosts has their own special things to show, from basics of Aspara dance to modern art, organic farm, historic items or silk worms

Going off the beaten path and explore the real life of people in a country is what creates unforgettable memories. We are trying to help you by giving exclusive access to local homes, while at the same time promoting local culture and supporting local families with additional income. Enjoy the experience!

 

 

 

 

 

The team is filming and interviewing the family

Dine With The Locals in German TV

We have our six minutes of fame in September, when the Cambodia-Episode of “Mit 80 Jahren um die Welt” is broadcasted on German TV station ZDF. A team visited us in April and filmed for half a day at our host Sarath’s house. The show tales six elderly people on a trip around the world, and one stop was in Cambodia. After visiting the night market and the temples they also wanted get in touch with a local family.

And the best experience local life and cook and eat with locals  is what we a Dine With The Locals can do best. Sarath explained the concept of the mushroom farm and then led the guests to the crocodiles, where they wer even allowed to feed them with fish – from a safe distance of course. The crocodiles there are bred for eggs and babies, not as meat producers. After exploring the surroundings it was time for a typical Khmer lunch with three different dishes. 

Family took good care of the guests

The day was hot and also one of the days with a power cut. To provide a bit a a breeze, Sarath’s father went to the neighbors who had a simple generator running, used all extension cords available and made two small fans going. This and a few cold towels and hand held fans was ver much appreciated by the guests.

For us the show is a great opportunity to be a but more known the the German speaking market, but also showcase what we are doing. The visitors where overwhelmed by the hospitality and friendliness of our host family.

 

TV Team is getting ready
TV Team is getting ready
Sarath gets her mic
Sarath gets her mic
The team is filming and interviewing the family
The team is filming and interviewing the family
Thomas and Sarath during filming
Thomas and Sarath during filming
The guest could feed the crocodiles
The guest could feed the crocodiles
The old people enjoyed Cambodian food
The old people enjoyed Cambodian food

 

You can see the part of the episode here:

 

The whole family helps preparing the Khmer dessert

The Khmer dessert from the tree

Num pleae-ay, fake fruit cake, (នំផ្លែអាយ) is a sweet and yummy Khmer dessert consisting of a piece of palm sugar, wrapped in a layer of sticky rice flour. Before eating, you have to top it up with shredded coconut flesh to make it even more tasty. Desserts are an important part of Khmer food, but not always eaten after the meal. Instead Khmer citizens buy it as a snack.

Cambodian desserts are sweet and juicy
Cambodian desserts are sweet and juicy

"Making

Making fruit cake is an old tradition
Making fruit cake is an old tradition

 

In ancient times, Khmer called this dessert នំបំពួនស្ករ [num bɑmpuən skɑɑ, dripping cake]/ នំបង្កប់ស្ករ [num bongkob skaa, embedded cake] or នំខំស្ក [num kham skaa]. They difference originate from translation into Khmer language, but also local varieties. Originally, people made it from sticky rice flour, rolled into a flat pancake and then put palm sugar inside, made a ball and then boiled it. Finally, they placed the Khmer dessert in a bamboo knot and topped on a slice of banana peel to sell in the village market. Even today you can see sellers with bicycles offering it in the village or sell it mainly in the morning at the market.

An ancient Khmer dessert

But sometimes, because of the thin crust of the cake, the juice of the palm sugar  leaks out, and then cake has no taste. So, house-wifes changed the cooking technique and stopped filling the palm sugar inside. They cooked only rice flour, then grilled it and placed it in the banana leave. When you want to eat it, you have to dip the Cambodian dessert in honey or palm sugar liquid and sprinkle with chopped coconut flakes. Recently, people started cooking this cake by putting the piece of palm sugar inside again, but it does not place in a bamboo knot like before.

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Because the cake had a ball shape and something like a seed inside,  locals called it for a long time a tree fruit cake, even if it wasn’t a actual fruit. But the name still remains as a fake fruit cake, នំផ្លែអាយ. or Num plea-ay. 

Keeping the Cambodian tradition alive

The whole family helps preparing a Khmer dessert

The whole family helps preparing a Khmer dessert

The tradition of making it is fading. The recipes and manuals are orally traded most from mother to daughter. But since many young women are less interested in cooking (and young men never actually were), those traditions are on the risk of extinction. At DINE WITH THE LOCALS our host preserving those traditions. Ms Phanny in Phnom Penh is a new host, who always made the fruit cake for her family. Now she makes the Khmer dessert for special occasions, but when you are lucky, she will tell you how to make this Khmer desserts as well.

 

Offerings for the hungry ghosts

Hungry ghost festival in Cambodia – Chinese version

Not only in business and food, also in tradition you can see how many families in Cambodia have Chinese roots. There will be celebrations for Chinese New year, but also today, August 15th., is an important day. Families in Cambodia get up early morning to prepare all the offerings and make specials version of food in their homes. Its time for the Hungry ghost festival or Sen Kbal tek in Cambodia

Offerings for the hungry ghosts

Offerings from the ghosts in a Cambodian home

The days is called Hungry Ghost Festival, often also written Zhongyuan Jie (中元節), Gui Jie (鬼節) or Yulan Festival, and it is also a Chinese version of the Pchum Ben festival in Khmer culture. Another name is Sen Kbal tek (សែនក្បាលទឹក).

Old story about Buddhas advice

One  legends says that a student of Buddha students, Maudgalyayana, is kind of the founder. of the festival. He achieved the state of abhijñā and used his new found powers to search for his deceased parents. The story goes that he saw his mother in the realm of the hungry ghosts. So he went down to hell, took a bowl, filled it with some food and gave it to the ghosts and his mother.

But before they could get it in their mouth, the food turned into sizzling hot coal bricks. The student then asked the Buddha for help. He told him, that the mother’s sins were quite significant, and it needs 1000 monks to make offerings. A good day for that would be the 15th of the 7th month in the lunar calendar. And to be on the safe site, he added, prepare as much as you can, make it look nice and don’t forget fruits, incense sticks and candles.

Day off for the hungry ghost festival in Cambodia

And of course the Buddha was right. The 1000 monks showed up, took the offerings and created enough power to free the mother from her sufferings. So to prevent something happening to your ancestors, families get up early and start cooking all the food. They present everything at the front door of a house or in the lobby. Khmer-Chinese families also show their wealth by big offerings, while at the same time pleasing the ghosts. In some Cambodian families all members come together for a – sometimes vegetarian – meal. Some seats are reserved for the deceased and remain empty, but will served with food. 

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What happens to the offerings? The family will either divide it with its members or give food to poor people in the neigborhood or in the village. The 1000 monks will not show up anymore, and Chinese family rarely invite them. Another reason: since we started the rainy season, monks will likely stay in the pagoda, because it is too hard for them to walk outside for the alms giving. So Khmers go to the temples and feed the monks, until after Pchum Ben Day.

It is common that members of the family take a day off from work, but it’s deducted from annual leave since it’s not a public holiday in Cambodia. Some businesses will also be closed at least in the morning for the celebrations. You will see kind of the same offerings during the Pchum Ben festival in Cambodia, which is in 2019 at September 27th and counts as a public holiday. Many workers will leave Phnom Penh and head to their hometowns for this event. 

A special experience for travelers

From next year on we will offer a special experience for the Chinese hungry ghost festival. But for this years Cambodian version of the festival, we can offer you a ver special and spiritual experience. You will help a family wit the preparations for the festival, then go with the to the pagoda and watch the praying (or pray with the family, up to you). After the prayers and religious ceremony you will go back to the house and have a great meal all together.

Hungry ghost festival in Cambodia

If you want to celebrate Pchum Ben with our hosts, please let us know in advance. We can check who is available. 

 

 

 

 

Food is prepared in the morning

Hungry ghost festival in Cambodia